Any Opinions on Sea Ray 360 AFT Cabin — Boat Design Forums

30 Апр 2014 | Author: | No comments yet »
Sea Ray 360

Sea Ray 360 a good boat

I have owned one for four years, that was re-powered with fresh 350’s. Surveyed it myself to ensure no structural issues. As for living with the design;

1) Very fuel efficient around 7-8 knots (relatively light boat), will surf at around 12 knots and plane at 15-16 knots. I top out at 21 knots with 3/4 tanks full and four-six people. At 16 knots, you’re spinning 3400 rpm on the 260hp 350s. The slightly dished stern (propeller pocket) gives a slight bow rise attitude that I tolerate, that is somewhat overcome with the trim tabs. Would prefer less stern squat. At 7 knots I get a decent 2 nmpg.

2) Solid fiberglass hull, when I installed a thru-hull transducer, the solid layup hull was a whopping 1.25 thick just aft of the engines. The solid fiberglass sides from the waterline up taper to about 3/8 or 1/4 at the deck join making for a noisy ride from wave slap. At anchor you can hear the plink plink transmitted through the whole boat. Solid, but noisy. If you’re used to cored hulls, the solid hull is like being in a large drum.

3) Gel coat is very thick, and can probably stand a sanding, making for several stress cracks at the sharp points. At least it’s thick enough for wet sanding if required, and buffs out fine.

4) Stainless stanchion rails are welded on the underside of the bases (for a cleaner look). This design has less weld bead, and consequently weaker joints. Look for floppy rails, as you’ll have to unbolt them and re-weld the bases with a more traditional bead and re-bed. This is worth doing anyways to ensure properly sealed and bedded rails. All rail mounts are through bolted and generally accessible. Once done, the railing is quite stiff. Just a time consuming job.

5) Unable to find any osmosis. That super thick gelcoat hasn’t transmitted any flaws, and the general fiberglass work is decent, if almost heavy duty compared to today’s newer designs.

6) Sea Ray’s original install of the vacuflush system is flawed. They used only 1 pump to service two toilets. A well running vacuflush system requires each toilet it’s own pump. Once installed properly, I found the system works quite well. But we all know how cheap an extra pump is.

7) Those classic sliding glass in frame windows love to leak with strong rain and winds. Keep the drain holes clear of spider nests. Classic 70s engineering. There are no other leak points on the deck, just those darn windows, that slide in worn out fuzz.

8) Marine cabinetry is backed with real genuine marine plywood, so it resists water damage quite well. Oddly the removable floor is just regular ply and will rot or de-lam if continually soaked. Not an issue, because you can replace, but come on Sea Ray.

9) The drain holes on the flybridge overhang are too small, and love to get plugged. You’ll have to enlarge them or constantly be poking the original size ones to clean them out. Water fills up in the flybridge superstructure and shorts out the aft deck lights. Previous owners have probably remedied this, but check this for neglect. Under extreme circumstances, water might fill up enough to cover the flybridge to salon structure connecting bolts — which if not properly bedded would allow water into the salon.

Sea Ray 360

10) Access to mechanical maintenance is good, as you can remove the floor and get top down access to everything, no reaching into boxed corners required. There is an access panel in the aft cabin floor for getting to the strut nuts. Make sure it hasn’t been carpeted over or blocked. You’ll need to access that space from time to time.

11) Most importantly, keep the bilge dry as the tabbed partitions in the hull structure are glassed / gelled plywood. Be careful of errant screw holes, pass throughs etc that aren’t properly waterproofed. An unmolested bill from the factory should be fine, it’s what owners and contractors do afterwards is the issue.

12) The outer lower perimeter of the hull (especially forward, and to the sides) is a double bulkheaded with solid fiberglass partitions. Inside is flotation foam. Presumably, if you punch a hole or scrape away a large section of the side chines, the boat won’t sink. Make sure there is no water intrusion into this area (i.e from previous impact damage). I have an ’85 and with a moisture meter I was unable to find anything (which makes sense — assuming no previous damage). Check this to ensure any previous damage (if any) was properly repaired and dried out etc.

13) Cutlass hardware, strut bearings, strainers, sea cocks etc. are all decent and good quality brand name (perko etc.)


Other than that, we love the boat and the layout. The large side decks and tall rails are awesome for handling lines and getting around. In genuine 6 foot waves the boat is a bit light, but it handles 3-4 footers just fine.

Solid construction, good fuel economy at trawler speeds, but mediocre planing performance are how I would describe the Sea Ray 360 AC.

Sea Ray 360
Sea Ray 360

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